A Step Through Time


Cesare Vecellio's Costume Plates 1580s: Venetian noblewoman dressed for a public celebration.	Venetian noblewoman dressed for a public celebration shown front full length view. Photo taken by Michael Lane

Venetian noblewoman dressed for a public celebration side view. Photo taken by Nathaniel Murray	Venetian noblewoman dressed for a public celebration front view close. Photo taken by Lorralei Burton

The wood cut that inspired its creation was in fact a dress study conducted at the time this dress was originally worn. The style of wearing ruffs, at the shoulder, as well as the neck is a uniquely Venetian inspiration. The ruffs are made of silk organza and edged in a point lace, adding to the decadence of this style choice.

Front lacing fastens this gown, as seen in the wood cut. Under the lacing of the dress the camicia is visible. Over the shoulders the sitter wears a partlet that is of a silk organza and edged in point lace. I

The sleeves are tied into the bodice and can be removed if the wearer so chooses. At the wrist the camicia is seen showing through with a little ruffle effect. One reason for the camicia being seen at the edges of the gown is to protect the gown from any body grease spoiling the fabric. Thus only the undergarments would be washed regularly.

In the recreation of this portrait gown the same features of the sleeves, waist and front lacing can be seen. The fullness of the skirt at the waist can also be identified. The method of gathering the 9 meters of skirt into the waist is called ‘cartridge pleating’ and is done by hand. This is a similar method to the pencil pleating used for curtains today.

The torso is flattened out showing no curvature under the bust line as we would expect to see today. This is because one of the foundation garments for this style of dress was a corset. As well as a corset an under skirt and camicia would also have been worn, and under these a slip so that the corset is not against the skin. This was like wearing two sets of clothes.

A brocade has been chosen for the recreation as a suitable substitute for the brocades available at the time. A girdle and matching bracelets of pearl beads finishes this ensemble.

All intellectual content, composition, layout, designs and photographs, unless otherwise noted are copyright 2007 to Deborah Lane ©, or, copyright 2003 to Deborah Murray © also known as Mistress Oonagh O'Neill ©. All Original renaissance art works and artefacts are not copyright to Deborah Murray, and are shown for educational use only . If you see something you'd really like to use, please contact me!