A Step Through Time
"Conspicuous Consumption with Elegance"
Reconstructing
History
Venetian Noble Women's Dress
Late Sixteenth Century
1570 Veronese
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| Venetian Lady 1570 Palo Veronese Munich, Alte Pinakothek | Venetian noblewoman's dress 1570 close view front |
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| Venetian noblewoman's dress 1570 side rear | Venetian noblewoman's dress 1570 front |
In
the original portrait ‘Venetian Noble Woman’ of 1570 by Paolo
Veronese, you see a noblewoman dress in a front-laced Venetian gown.
Her sleeves have ‘lantern’ style tops to them through which you can
see her carmica, (base undergarment similar to a smock), and are attached to her
gown by bows. The carmica is seen forming puffs between the bows for a pretty
effect. At the wrist the carmica is
again visible as a small
ruff under the small tabs at the end of the sleeve.
These
same bows have been used as embellishments at her waist also, replacing the
ornate beaded girdle more
regularly seen. Under the bows at the waist can be seen the gathering of the
skirt.
Under
the lacing of the dress the carmica is visible. Along the top edge of the bodice a small ruffle is seen
from the gathering of the carmica. Over
her shoulders the sitter wears a partlet of a light fabric possibly
silk chiffon or silk organza. No embellishment is discernable on the partlet.
In
the recreation of this portrait gown the same features of the sleeves, waist,
front lacing and partlet
can be seen. The fullness of the
skirt at the waist can also be identified.
The method of gathering the 10 metres of skirt into the waist is called
‘cartridge pleating’ and is done by hand.
This is a similar method to the pencil pleating used for curtains today.
The
torso is flattened out showing no curvature under the bust line as we would
expect to see today. This is
because one of the foundation garments for this style of dress was a corset.
As well as a corset an
under skirt and carmica would also have been worn.
This was like wearing two sets of clothes.
Velveteen
has been chosen for the recreation as a suitable substitute for the velvets
available at the time.
This gown was made and is worn by Deborah Lane of Canberra.
Venetian patrician gown made by Deborah Lane
Front Page Introduction Principles of Design 1555 Titian 1560 Veronese 1570 Veronese 1580 Vicellio Accessories Lace Textiles Patterns About the Designers Further Reading
All intellectual content, composition, layout, designs and photographs, unless otherwise noted are copyright 2007 to Deborah Lane ©, or, copyright 2003 to Deborah Murray © also known as Mistress Oonagh O'Neill ©. All Original renaissance art works and artefacts are not copyright to Deborah Murray, and are shown for educational use only . If you see something you'd really like to use, please contact me!